Food is fuel, whether you are talking people or dogs and the greater your fuel needs, the greater you need for both more and higher quality food. Now, I’m not going to write an article that is an advertisement for those $1 or even $2 a pound dog foods out there. Some of them are worth what they are charging for them and some of them aren’t worth much more than the cheap stuff you can buy at the local grocery or feed store. What I am going to talk to you about is exactly what you need to be feeding your hunting dog and why…

First, let’s take a look at the ingredient list on your dog’s bag of food. For your dog to be getting the nutrition he needs the first ingredient should be chicken, lamb, or (if you are feeding one of those outrageously high dollar dog foods) something like buffalo, salmon or duck. What you should not see is corn or meat-by-products. Corn is practically indigestible for dogs, at best if will make them feel full so they don’t eat their dog house or the other dogs. Meat-by-products are often things like ground up chicken feet or pig intestines and other things that the meat industry needs to figure out a way to get rid of after they’ve pulled the “good” meat for your local grocery store’s meat market. And the word “meat” is not very reassuring either, since the makers of the dog food who list the term “meat” don’t really seem to want you to know what kind of “meat” they are using. I mean, for all I know, their “meat” could be making my dog a cannibal … Probably not, but why take the chance.

There should also be enough of the high quality meat in the dog food to give it at least 20% protein. Less will not give your hunting dog the nutrients he needs to be in top form. Crude fat should make up another 10% (again, this is a minimum).

All dog foods use some type of filler, but some are better than others. As I said earlier, corn is pretty worthless as far as nourishing your dog. Oatmeal is much better, so if your dog’s food uses oatmeal as a filler, it gets extra points. Many dog food manufacturers have begun adding fruits and vegetables and these are also something you want to look for to make sure your dog is getting a well balanced diet from his food.

By reading the ingredients list on the bag, you can find out quite a bit about whether or not the kibble your dog is getting is going to give him what he needs. But there are other factors involved in feeding your hunting dog, as well.

Since food equals fuel, when the dog is actually working or hunting, his caloric needs are higher than when he is just laying around. That means you need to increase his kibble in direct proportion to the increase in his activity. But energy isn’t the only reason your dog needs good, quality food. The better his diet the easier it is for him to develop muscles, grow a thick coat and stay warm in cold weather; even injuries will heal faster if the dog is well nourished.

Even if he is not working, during cold weather your hunting dog needs more food than in the summer – for every 10 degree Fahrenheit the temperature drops, your dog needs about 7 to 8% more food. Given that many times the difference in temperature can be as much as 30 to 60 degrees colder in the winter than in the summer (or more), you are looking at a dog that needs between a 25% and 50% increase in what you should be feeding them. You don’t want to make the dog fat, but a little tiny bit of extra “padding” isn’t going to hurt and it will help them keep warm.

Another thing, be sure the dog gets adequate water. Water not only keeps them hydrated, but it helps them digest their food and utilize the nutrients in it. Adding some warm water to their kibble is one way to make sure that the dogs are getting enough to drink.

When my dogs are being asked to expend extra energy or are sick and need a boost, I feed them what we call “puppy primer” (not that ANY of my dogs are puppies – most of them are 5 to 10 years old). Basically its about 1-1/2 lbs of chicken or beef liver, thrown in a pan and enough water to cover it plus an extra 2 cups, or so. Boil it until it’s done (no longer pink) and use a food processor, potato masher or whatever and mash it all up. Each of our dogs gets about 1/2 cup of this added to his regular kibble, two or three times a week. Toss on an egg, 1/2 cup of yogurt or cottage cheese, a teaspoon of garlic and a tablespoon of salmon oil (other fish oil can be substituted, but mine LOVE salmon oil) and mix it all up with the kibble. We don’t always add all of the ingredients, just what happens to be in the kitchen, but when we serve kibble with “puppy primer” there is not a bowl in the house that’s not licked clean.

Many people don’t like to change their dog’s diet, but we’ve very seldom had any problems with it, except with one of the dogs who is extremely lactose intolerant (she does NOT get any of the cottage cheese, even though she loves it). If you think about it, up until just 20 or so years ago, many dogs ate table scraps for dinner and most of them lived on that pretty well, even though it meant they ate something different every night. Changing foods didn’t cause them digestive problems and it probably won’t mess with your hunting dog’s tummy either. Just to be on the safe side though, I wouldn’t wait until the night before a hunt to change their food around.

Having a diet that gives him all the nutrients he needs will never make a badly trained hunting dog great. On the other hand, even a truly great hunting dog who isn’t getting the nourishment he needs won’t be performing to his full potential.

Related posts:

1. How To Properly Socialize Your Hunting Dog Pup – Part 1
2. How To Properly Socialize Your Hunting Dog Pup – Part 2
3. Help For The Skunk Sprayed Hunting Dog

In a previous article, we looked at why off-season training will benefit your hunting dog. Many people don’t think about training their hunting dog in the summer and what happens next is a fairly common scenario. It’s a hot summer afternoon and you’re both being pretty lazy – you’re laying in the hammock and your loyal hunting dog is laying right next to you on the ground, sleepily wondering if you’re going to reach down and scratch him on the head or get up and feed him dinner. All the sudden it hits you – the opening day of bird season is less than a month away. Hopefully, this is NOT you, because let’s face it – if you’ve waited this long, neither you or the dog is going to be in great condition for the first day of hunting.

If, however, you read my previous article, “Why Is Off-Season Training Important For Your Hunting Dog” or if there are still a couple of months until opening day it is not too late to get your dog in shape for hunting season. Here are some ways to help your canine companion be ready …

1) Brush up on your dog’s basic obedience skills. If you’ve been lax over the summer, he may have gotten lazy about obeying you and this is not something you want to find after you’re in the field.

2) Start “roading” your dog. For those not familiar with the term “roading”, it is a method of conditioning dogs where they are tethered to a vehicle and exercised on the road. Though many hunters have a tendancy to think this is only used for training trial dogs, nothing can be further from the truth. By roading your dog for 30 to 45 minutes at a time, a couple of times a week, you can condition pretty much every part of the dog’s body. Roading will strengthen the dog’s heart and lungs, tone up his muscles and even toughen up his feet. The best way to road your dog is on a bike, or a pair of skates, if you skate. Find a little used road – one with not much traffic. You might want to check out the regulations at parks in your area, check out the track at the local high school or look for new subdivisions where the houses are just now being built. Attach your dog to your bike, ATV or, if you’re on skates, take to lead in a gloved hand. Do NOT ever use a regular collar to road your dog. Instead invest in a padded roading harness and a lead that is about six foot long. If your dog has been well versed in obedience, jerking you off the road shouldn’t be a problem. If it is, go back to Obedience 101 and start over. The dog should be allowed to run a little ahead of you and even pull you along a bit. Thirty minutes of this will do wonders for your dog’s overall health and his ability to perform on opening day. It probably won’t hurt you either …

3) Do some basic drills. Use any of the training drills you used when you first began training your hunting dog. Don’t drill him into the ground – just a few minutes a day, several times a week are enough. Be consistent and do the drills on days you aren’t roading him.

4) Take the dog out in the field. Once or twice a week, take the dog to a nearby field or park and let him “hunt” for an hour or so. The workout will not only wake up his hunting skills and get his nose in prime working condition again, the walking around will probably be good for you too.

By investing a little time and effort during the summer for some off-season training, you and your dog will have a better opening weekend come bird season.

Related posts:

1. How To Properly Socialize Your Hunting Dog Pup – Part 2
2. Help For The Skunk Sprayed Hunting Dog
3. Training Yourself To Be Your Hunting Dog’s Partner

While most hunters are religious about taking care of our guns, making sure our boots are ready for the season and taking care of our hunting dog’s basic needs, many of us don’t think a lot about training our hunting dog during those hot, lazy days during the summer. I’m here to tell you that’s a mistake. Why? Well, let’s look at it…

We take a dog into the field that has laid around in the backyard or the kennel for several months with little or no regular exercise or physical conditioning, who’s been eating his fool head off and gotten somewhat fat and a lot lazy and then expect him to perform as well as he did at the end of last season. Fellas – it’s not going to happen! Such expectations are not fair for the dog and they aren’t fair to you. You will be disappointed in the dog’s performance and your dog’s feeling will be hurt by your somewhat surly attitude on the trip home.

No athlete can perform his best if he isn’t working out on a regular basis. That’s why the Olympic hopefuls train almost year round and why there are “Spring Training Camps” for football players, right? Well folks, your hunting dog is an athlete. Lots of hunters fail to realize exactly how strenuous hunting is for their dogs. Yes, we’re spending a lot of time out in the field, but we’re not the ones literally running around for four to six hours a day, slamming a bowl of kibble, sleeping a few hours and then being asked to do it all again the next day. For most dogs, their main goal in life (well, besides eating) is to please their handler, but to do so they must be properly conditioned. And you can’t wait until a week or two before bird season starts to help them get that way.

Even though he enjoys it, hunting is hard work for your dog. It is an activity where his heart and lungs need to be in tip-top condition. His muscles need to be toned and the pads of his feet need to be tough to withstand the hours of running over rough ground that he often encounters. Laying around during the late spring and summer is not going to go a long way towards achieving any of these health goals for your dog.

If he is in the air-conditioning all of the time, things become even worse. The temperature at the first of the season can be brutal for a dog that’s been in climate control for the past few months. Whether it is hotter or colder than what he is used to, the dog will suffer. I am NOT saying that the dog should be left outside all summer with a shade tree and a pail of water or advocating working your dog in the heat of the day – what I am saying is that the dog needs to be worked out, even during the summer and that a sensible training program during the summer will keep your dog from having to be carried back to the truck half way through the first day of the season.

I’ll be talking more about this in my next article, “Spring – oops – Summer Training Camp For Your Hunting Dog”

Related posts:

1. How To Properly Socialize Your Hunting Dog Pup – Part 2
2. How NOT to Break Up A Dog Fight
3. Training Yourself To Be Your Hunting Dog’s Partner

In our last article, Choose Puppy Selection: Choosing The Right Puppy To Avoid A Gun Shy Dog, we showed you how to pick a confident, out-going pup to minimize the possibility of ending up with a dog that is gun-shy. In this article, we’ll give you some basics about how to introduce your future hunting dog to sudden loud noises, including gun-fire, properly.

To have a hunting dog who is happy to hear the sound of gunfire, make sure your pup associates the noise with something he loves. With puppies, you can be sure that one of the things he loves best is his food. One way to accustom your hunting dog pup to loud noises is to wait until he is eating and clap your hands together a couple of times. He may or may not bother to look around. Do this several days in a row and when he stops paying any attention to your clapping, substitute a couple of pans. Stand at the far side of the room from where the pup is eating and bang the pans together – just once or twice. The pup will probably stop eating and look at you. If you act as if nothing out of the ordinary has happened the pup should be reassured and continue eating. After a few days of the pans being banged while he is eating, he probably won’t even take his head out of the dish.

When the puppy is completely at ease with the noise of the pans, it is time to raise the stakes a bit. If the puppy is fed outside, place the puppy’s bowl on the ground and walk to the far side of the yard. Fire a couple of shots from a pistol loaded with low-volume blanks and see if there is any reaction (be sure you are not breaking any local laws, please). If the pup shows any signs of being scared, go back to the pans for a few days. Only when the pup shows no react to the blanks while he is eating is it time to progress further.

While the puppies are playing and romping in the field, is another good time to let them hear gun fire. Again, this is something that all puppies love and the noise will have something positive attached to it. Have someone standing about 35 to 40 yards away fire a couple of low-volume blanks and watch for a reaction – either positive or negative. Pace your training accordingly; a negative reaction from the dog means you need to go back a step, but a positive reaction or no reaction at all means you can move ahead. Don’t think that because the dog doesn’t react to the first shot you need to burn up a whole box of shells or move to more powerful ammo the first day out. Three or four shots a day, several days a week is plenty.

Next step involves you and an assistant. Have your assistant stand about 45 yards away from you and the dog. Toss a feathered dummy and allow the pup to start a retrieve. When the dog is about 2/3 of the way to the thrown dummy, your assistant should fire the blank-loaded pistol. Hopefully, the dog will ignore the gun-fire and finish the retrieve and he should be praised for his success. If the noise seems to startle him, it’s time to back off for a few days and then try again.

After a few successful days with the blanks and the feathered dummy, move to a clipped-wing pigeon. The increase in the dog’s level of excitement at the live bird should balance out the fact that after just a couple of shots, you will have your assistant begin to fire the gun from a slightly closer position. As always, go slow. Work your way up from your low-volume blanks to, say a 410 shotgun; then on up to your 12-guage. But always watch the dog for signs that he is uneasy with the noise and be willing to back up a step or two.

Eventually you will be able to fire the gun with the dog right beside you and have him show no signs of distress. In fact, the dog should become excited because it means a chance to retrieve. The key is to success is a slow and steady progression and allowing the dog to get used to the increasing level of noise without becoming afraid.

Related posts:

1. Training Your Hunting Dog Not To Jump
2. Training Yourself To Be Your Hunting Dog’s Partner
3. Puppy Selection: Choosing The Right Puppy To Avoid A Gun Shy Dog

Having owned a couple of gun-shy dogs myself, I know how hard this problem is to deal with. Not only is gun-shyness hard to correct, it is frustrating for the hunter. This can cause tension between the bird dog and his owner, which can lead to other behavioral issues. Fortunately, having a hunting dog that is afraid of the sound of gun-fire, or in some cases even the sight of the gun, is also one of the those things that can be avoided, in most cases.

Patience during a puppy’s initial training and a little bit of common sense during early training will, ninety-nine times out of a hundred, give you a hunting dog that is unafraid of the noise of the guns. To a well-trained hunting dog, the sound of that gun will be something exciting, because it means he’s probably going to get a retrieve.

Avoiding a hunting dog who is scared of the gun should begin when you’re picking your pup. Though a well-bred dog can still be ruined by improper training, some dogs are just born with a tendency to be nervous or timid and should be avoided. Pick a reputable breeder and ask for references. Don’t just get the references and then forget about them either; call at least two people on the list and ask how their dogs are doing in the field. Make sure you ask about their temperament and general health. Though this won’t guarantee you a hunting dog that does well, it will give you some background to work with.

When you go look at the pups, spend as much time looking at the litter’s momma and papa as you spend looking at the puppies themselves. The sire and dam should be confident and calm, eager to be petted and spoken to. A dog that shys away from you or shows an aggressive steak should be avoided, as should their pups. Only after you are satisfied that the litter’s parents are sound should you begin thinking about choosing one of the pups as a potential hunting partner.

Like the parents, the pup you choose should be friendly and confident. No matter how appealing that shy little guy at the back of the litter is, remember that with an already timid dog even a car backfiring or the sound of a fire-cracker can be the catalyst that turns him into a dog that will tuck his tail and run rather that retrieve the bird you just shot. It’s much better to choose an outgoing and confident pup. While you’re looking at the pups, take a minute and make some soft unexpected noises with your mouth – a chirping or clucking sound. Watch carefully and see which of the puppies looks interested or cock their head to the side to listen. Snap your fingers once or twice – again, not too loud. The puppies’ reactions to this semi-quiet, but unusual and unexpected noise should give you clues to how that same dog might later react to the sound of a gun. If the puppy tries to run behind mama, tucks his tail up under his belly or cringes in the corner, he might have a big problem dealing with the noise of a gun later. If, on the other hand, the pup noses around and seems to be trying to figure out where the noise is coming from, you just might have a keeper.

Remember that with any luck this is a dog that will be accompanying you on hunts for the next 10 to 12 years. Choose carefully!

Related posts:

1. Training Your Hunting Dog Not To Jump
2. How To Properly Socialize Your Hunting Dog Pup – Part 1
3. How To Properly Socialize Your Hunting Dog Pup – Part 2

The importance of teaching the command “whoa” cannot be over-emphasized. It is, perhaps, one of the most important things you will ever teach your hunting dog. For one thing, “whoa” is the basis for being able to teach your hunting dog hold point, to stop and to back, as well as many other more advanced training commands. It can also, most important of all, be the command that can actually save your dog’s life.

Ok – I can see you sitting there staring at your monitor, scratching your head and thinking “What’s this guy talking about? Whoa can save my dog’s life?”

Let’s start with why whoa is important from a training perspective. Whoa is a command that, to a well trained hunting dog, means to immediately stop where he is and stay there until his handler tells him to do something else. Whoa allows you, when the dog has made an error, to go to him, place him back where the error was made and begin again. This keeps you from having to yell the same command three or four times, making the dog think you are either an idiot or that it is ok NOT to sit until he’s heard it several times.

As important as this command is in other areas of training, whoa’s true value lays in the aspect of your dog’s safety. Any dog, and especially a trained hunting dog, can become so focused on what they currently doing that nothing else seems to exist. You’ve either seen or heard about the dog so intent on chasing that ball that he dashes into the street and under the wheels of a passing car. Now think about the dangers inherent to hunting dogs – the incredibly strong current or thin ice of a river where your bird went down, skunks, rattlesnakes or other animals he doesn’t need to tangle with, the barb-wire fence he’s charging at full bore …

To a properly trained hunting dog, their trainer’s voice or whistle command should be paramount. Even at their most excited, the well-trained hunting dog should acknowledge and obey the voice of his trainer. For these dogs, the use of the whoa command could literally mean the difference between life and death.

This having been said, exactly how do you train your dog to follow this extremely important command? There are probably as many different ways of training whoa as there are dog trainers. Various trainers advocate the use of a “whoa post” or use a check cord looped around the dog’s flanks; others use a sling, made from check cords, in what I call the “lift” method. George Hickox, owner of the George Hickox School of Dog Training and Handling, uses some homemade gadgets called a “whoa board” and a “whoa barrel”, combined with a “lift” system he has perfected. Whichever method you choose to use, making sure your dog understands and obeys the whoa command should be a priority item on your training list.

We will explore several methods of teaching “whoa” in a future articles.

Related posts:

1. Training Your Hunting Dog Not To Jump
2. How To Properly Socialize Your Hunting Dog Pup – Part 2
3. How NOT to Break Up A Dog Fight

As a hunter, the more you know about your hunting dog, the more successful you can be when it comes to bringing home game. You and your dog are partners in the field and you each have your role. Your role in this partnership is to get your well-trained dog to a likely hunting ground, correctly read your dog’s body language and make an accurate shot to kill the game he finds. The dog’s job, too many minds, is only to flush or point the bird his owner finds and then retrieve it once it’s down. Think again; logically, it is the dog’s job to find the game, not yours.

From the distant past, dogs and their ancestors hunted for food. Their very existence depended on first finding and then catching something to eat. Those that were successful in the hunt lived to produce offspring. As time passed, the dog’s sense of smell grew to far surpass that of humans. They became able to pick up on just the barest hint of the odor of their prey.

Whether a blood hound, a pointer or any of the other hunting breeds, these dogs have been bred for generations to be confident, hardy and controlled. They have also been bred to follow commands from their trainer, even while being able to think for themselves.

This being said, the first lesson in training your hunting dog is for you, not the dog. It is not the hunter who is going to find the birds, it is the dog. A hunter who wants to bring home birds, or any other game for that matter, needs to learn to trust their dog’s instincts and read their body language. Your job is to decide where game is likely to be found, not to actually find it; that job is the dog’s.

A hunter who wants to form a successful partnership with their dog must learn to read their dog’s body language. This is because all types of hunting dogs have a physical “tell” when they find the scent of a bird or other game; though a pointer is the only hunting dog that will automatically stiffen into the classic pointing position (maybe not a “show quality” point, but definitely a point), all dogs will indicate their find with a definite physical reaction. Subtle though these signals may be, it is the hunter’s job to learn to recognize their individual dog’s “tell” and act on them.

Many beginning hunters, and some old timers too, will wander around the field, calling their dog from one likely-looking spot to the next, without ever realizing that the dog is trying to tell them they are sending him in the wrong direction. Most dogs will quickly pick up on their owner’s lack of confidence in their skills and, more likely than not, the demoralized dog will fail in the tasks set before it.

To avoid this scenario, begin closely watching your dog during training. First in the yard and then in the field, watch how the dog reacts when he scents a bird. Don’t make the mistake of thinking this training is only for your hunting dog. This is a chance for you and the dog to begin to develop what to many will appear to be an uncanny ability to read each other’s minds. Watch the pup’s reaction to the bird – watch his eyes as well as his body. Later, when you are training your dog in the field with either planted or released birds, learn to see how he reacts when he encounters the “hot” scent trail of a hidden bird. The clues that he is on the right track may be subtle, but they will be there every time. As the dog finds the birds, not only will his confidence grow, but you will become more and more able to read his “tells”. You will begin to trust the dog to find the game and realize what he is capable of. Remember, this is a partnership.

Most dogs have an ingrained desire to find game, as well as the ability to do so. As their trainer, your job is to direct this natural talent and desire towards the goals you have set for them and then allow them to do what comes naturally. Whether you want your dog to point you to the game, track and flush elusive quarry or retrieve your kill after a successful shot, a successful hunter must first learn to trust that their hunting dog will actually find the game and train himself on how to read the signs when the dog has either sighted or scented his prey.

Related posts:

1. How To Properly Socialize Your Hunting Dog Pup – Part 1
2. How To Properly Socialize Your Hunting Dog Pup – Part 2
3. Puppy Selection: Choosing The Right Puppy To Avoid A Gun Shy Dog

Some of life’s hardest, and most important lessons, are those learned from experience. Today, we’re going to talk about something I have learned first-hand. I’m going to talk about the right and wrong ways to break up a dog fight.

Many readers are probably saying, “My dog is too well-trained … too friendly … would never get into a dog fight.”

You might be surprised to find out how wrong you are. Even the best trained dogs will fight in certain circumstances, just ask Prince Edward. In 2009, pictures appeared in an English newspaper of him holding a stick over one of his trained Lab’s during a hunt. Apparently the dogs had gotten into a squabble over a pheasant and the prince had to step in to break up the ensuing dog fight. Note: These dogs seemed well-adjusted and would probably have worked this one out on their own, but we’ll leave that discussion for another article.

Dogs fight for a variety of reasons – the desire for a dominant position in the “pack”, wanting something another dog has, improper breeding, poor socialization (towards other dogs, people or both), fear, pain and defending themselves against attackers are the most common.

We are going to assume that your dog is well-bred, content with his place in your “pack”, trained and socialized to perfection, confident and good health. In other words – a normal, well-trained hunting dog out for a good day of hunting.

Then he meets up with the dog that belongs to your new hunting buddy, Joe. Joe’s dog has some major problems. He was taken away from his litter-mates too early and didn’t learn to speak “dog language” as well as he needs to. He wants to be the god of the animal world and your buddy Joe has been a bit too enthusiastic about using his new techno-toy (an e-collar) in his training. This has resulted in a dog who is living in a near constant state of low-level pain and agitation. All of this combines to create an unstable psycho-dog, who has just entered your dog’s life.

To make a long story short, Joe’s dog jumps your dog with little or no warning and your dog is forced to defend himself. Teeth are bared and flashing, the snarls and growls are escalating in volume and intensity and the dogs are locked together in what appears to be mortal combat.

The first thing you need to realize is that it does not matter that one of the combatants is the dog that sleeps with his head on your foot when you’re watching TV at night or has never bitten a soul in his life. You need to remember that, during a fight, this is not your loving and loyal companion. He does not see you as his trainer, his owner or his friend. He will not even remember that you are the one who feeds him every night or takes him on these glorious hunting trips. If you stick your hand or other part of your anatomy between him and the other dog, you are at best an obstacle to be moved (generally be grabbing it in his mouth and throwing it) or at worst another adversary.

There are proper ways to break up a dog fight and then there are the ways to try to break up a dog fight that will get you hurt, sometimes seriously hurt.

First, determine if intervention is actually needed. Are the dogs actually fighting (or fixing to fight) or is this mostly posturing to determine who the “top dog” is for today? Dogs can growl, snarl and posture to their heart’s content if they both understand proper “doggie” talk, one of them is willing to take a submissive role and the other is willing to accept his “surrender”. On the other hand, if the dogs are locked in what appears to be mortal combat and neither is giving ground, it may be time to take a more active role in stopping the carnage.

DO NOT grab the dogs’ muzzles or attempt to pry their jaws loose from the other dog. This will result in you getting bitten. DO NOT try to get between the two dogs. This, too, will result in you getting bitten and quite possibly mauled. Do not yell or scream at the dogs – this will only increase their level of excitement or anxiety. Do not beat on the dogs with sticks, boards, tire irons, etc – this will also increase excitement and will add additional pain to an already agitated dog’s overloaded sensory system.

The most effective way of breaking up a dog fight seems to be for each of you grab your dog by the rear legs and walk them backwards. Try to walk them in a circle – this keeps them slightly off-balance so that they don’t turn and attack you. Crate them or put them on a lead tied to a tree, but do not let them get back together. After a dog fight, it can take several hours for the “bad blood” between the dogs to subside (if it ever does).

Another method is to throw water on the dogs, though this actually seems to be dependant on getting some of the water into the dog’s ear channal. More effective, especially if the dog has a “grip” on his opponent, is to actually pour water into one or both of the dog’s ears. Even a water-trained retriever does not like water IN his ears will generally shake his head. This will allow you to pull the dogs apart and separate them.

Again, whatever you do – DO NOT try to get between the dogs or shield one of the dogs with your own body. If you do, you could end up with dozens of stitches yourself. And take it from someone who knows – dog bites and stitches don’t either one feel good…

Related posts:

1. Training Your Hunting Dog Not To Jump
2. Help For The Skunk Sprayed Hunting Dog
3. The Importance of Whoa in Hunting Dog Training

It doesn’t matter how well your hunting dog is trained or how much game is right in front of you if your dog has a run-in with a skunk. Not only is the hunt disrupted, but the ride home can be miserable – both for the hunting dog and anyone else who happens to be riding with him.

Letting the dog swim in the lake won’t help either – skunk spray contains a oil that clings to your dog or anything else it touches with the tenacity of a tick. Without neutralizing the oil in the skunk spray, the odor will hang around your hunting dog for days …

Most of the time-honored folk remedies for ridding your dog of skunk odor just aren’t that effective. There is one, however, that seems to do the trick.

According to “those in the know”, this remedy seems to be one of the best: a mixture of 3% hydrogen peroxide, baking soda, and dish washing soap, followed by a rinse of vinegar (apple cider or white) mixed with water, then a plain water rinse. The hydrogen peroxide, when mixed with the baking soda releases oxygen which breaks down the chemicals in the skunk spray. The dish washing soap helps dissolve the oil and the vinegar acts to neutralize the remaining odor. It is a good idea to keep a full bottle of both hydrogen peroxide and vinegar, a bottle of dish washing soap, a pound of baking soda and some protective gloves in a plastic or metal pail. The baking soda should be stored in a vacuum sealed plastic bag to keep it dry. With everything stored in the pail, it doesn’t take up much room and you’ll always be ready if your hunting dog gets sprayed by a skunk.

To remove the skunk stink from your hunting dog, first put on the gloves to keep as much of the smell off of you as possible. Add 1/2 cup of peroxide to 1 cup of baking soda in your container. You can double or triple the batch, depending on the size of your dog and how badly he got sprayed. Mix the peroxide and baking soda into a paste with your gloved hands. If you’re using dry baking soda and 3% peroxide that’s still good, you should get a nice foamy mixture. This chemical reaction releases the oxygen to do it’s work. It is also why you have to mix this concoction up after the dog is sprayed; it has to be fresh. Blend an ounce of dish soap into the mix. You can do this by hand and squish is around – you want to get the mixture smooth and a little runny. Avoiding the eyes, massage the mixture into the dog’s coat. You should concentrate on the chest, face and neck, since these are the areas most likely sprayed by the skunk. If you get the mixture in the dog’s eyes, flush with water immediately. Leave this stuff on the dog for ten to thirty minutes, again depending on how badly the dog was sprayed. Rinse with a mixture of water and vinegar. You can
substitute a package of Massengill douche for the vinegar, but the vinegar seems to work just as well, with fewer chemicals. The advantage to using Massengill is that it comes in packets, which can be stored with the baking soda in the plastic bag. Repeat the application, if needed. Rinse again, this time using water only.
Also, Petco sells a product called NATURE’S MIRACLE SKUNK ODOR REMOVER that doesn’t require rinsing and is said to work real well. It can, however, take multiple bottles to get a large dog smelling like a dog again and each bottle is $10+. The other problem is the only place I’ve seen this product is PetCo and it could be a long, stinky ride to the nearest Petco. If you’re going to use this, you might want to have a couple of bottles per hunting dog in the truck.

Though neither of these will totally remove ALL the skunk odor, it will remove most of it and allow you to get your hunting dog home without gagging the whole way.

SAFETY NOTE: Do NOT mix the home remedy listed above up ahead of time or try to store the left-overs. The mixture must be fresh to be effective and storing the remaining mix in a closed container could result in the build-up of explosive gasses.

Related posts:

1. Training Your Hunting Dog Not To Jump
2. How NOT to Break Up A Dog Fight
3. Training Yourself To Be Your Hunting Dog’s Partner

In Part 1 of this article, you learned why it is important to start properly socializing your hunting dog puppy the day you bring him home. We talked about ways to socialize you pup when you’re at home. But what about the other and equally important aspect of socialization – introducing him to new places, sounds and people? We will explore that in this article.

Any dog, but especially one that will be used to hunt, needs to be able to adapt to new and even frightening situations. Without this ability, the dog become unpredictable or even dangerous. One way to avoid this is to expose the young puppy to as many different places, smells, people and noises as possible.

One thing that must be avoided in these early socialization experiences is allowing the puppy to become terrified of whatever new thing you are exposing him to. If you have spent enough time with the puppy at home, this should not be a problem. After taking him away from his mother, you should have taken over the role as his care-giver and protector. He should be feeling comfortable with you and trusting you to take care of him and act in his best interests.

Now that you’ve gotten to the point that the puppy trusts you and you’ve spent enough time to be able to “read” him and gauge his level of comfort, it’s time to expose the pup to as many strange sights, noises, smells and people as possible. Take them with you when you go to the park, the lake or a friend’s house. Let him ride along with you in the car or truck when you drop the kids off for school. Remember, anything that the puppy hasn’t yet been exposed to can be new and exciting for him, as long as it is properly introduced. This is where you come in. Though you want the pup exposed to as many situations as possible, make sure you remain in control and don’t let anything happen that will cause him to be hurt or badly scared.

An important aspect of proper socialization is encouraging the dog’s desire to explore new places. Though you need to be aware of safety issues and local laws regarding loose dogs, you need to let you pup run around and explore off-lead in as many places as possible. If your town is strict about dogs being leashed, ask around and see if there is a leash-free dog park in the area. This allows your pup to learn to interact with not only other dogs, but their owners as well. You want to allow him as much freedom to explore as possible. When he comes after you call him, tell him he’s a good boy and give him a small treat (freeze-dried liver or a tiny scrap of jerky are both favorites with our dogs). Then be sure and give him the freedom to explore some more.

Whether off-lead or on, introduce your future hunting companion to people. If he seems shy you can allow them to give him a treat, but make sure he sees YOU hand it to them. It is never a good idea to teach your dog to take food from someone he doesn’t know.

By the time to pup is between eight and twelve weeks old, you can begin to teach him beginning commands, such as “no”, “sit”, “come”, “heel” and “stay”. These commands will be the basis for later training and make the puppy into a companion and hunting dog that you will be proud of.

A properly socialized hunting dog will be secure and confident, but at the same time he will know that you are in charge. He will be comfortable interacting with both other dogs and with new people. He will also have learned to put up with being restrained and told “no”.

Remember – at this point in the puppy’s life, everything you do or say to him is a lesson. By spending the time and effort you need to properly socialize your pup from the start, you will not only have a dog that will be easier to train, but you can look forward to having a hunting dog you can be proud of.

Related posts:

1. Training Your Hunting Dog Not To Jump
2. How To Properly Socialize Your Hunting Dog Pup – Part 1
3. Training Yourself To Be Your Hunting Dog’s Partner